The short answer
For new plants, sources take off pots and rock wool, rinse, pick off snails and eggs, and often quarantine. They differ on chemical dips, which LiveAquaria, a retailer, keeps for “extreme cases”. Buce Plant, a retailer, says tissue-culture plants are designed to be free of pests. In the tank, unplug first, then wipe or trim algae-covered leaves and siphon debris.
These steps are for live plants in freshwater tanks. Our guide to planting aquarium plants covers planting and anchoring each type afterward.
Clean new plants before they go in
Take off the pot, rock wool and damaged leaves
The Shrimp Farm, a shrimp and aquarium retailer: “Remember to take plants out of their little pot and remove any rock wool that may be around the roots before performing a dip.” LiveAquaria, a livestock retailer: “Be sure to remove any broken leaves and stems damaged during transit as they may become a site for potential rot or decay.”
Rinse each plant
LiveAquaria: “The first thing hobbyists should do upon receiving their new aquatic plant is to thoroughly rinse each plant in water. Oftentimes, this initial rinsing dislodges most common hitchhikers.”
Check for snails, eggs and other hitchhikers
LiveAquaria: “Manually remove any snail egg you find using your fingernails.” Snails, if you want none: Aquarium Co-Op, an aquarium retailer, in its pest-snail guide, for readers “determined to ban pet snails”: “Carefully inspect any new plants, and manually remove all snails and snail eggs.” It adds that “this quarantine plan is not bulletproof”. Our guides cover why snails appear, removing snails and planaria.
Trim algae-covered leaves
LiveAquaria: “If you find a leaf covered or partially covered in algae, carefully trim or remove the affected leaf.”
Quarantine, if you choose; sources differ on how long
LiveAquaria: “A minimum quarantine period of at least two weeks is recommended.” Buce Plant, an aquarium-plant retailer, keeps plants “under observation for 3-4 weeks”; The Shrimp Farm, “for up to a month”. Superior Shrimp Aquatics, a shrimp retailer, in its planaria guide: “Inspect and keep new plants in a separate observation container before introducing them. Do not assume a brief chemical dip eliminates every worm or egg capsule.” Our quarantine guide sets up a separate tank for new fish.
Bag unwanted plant material
The Aquatic Nuisance Species Task Force, a federal task force, in classroom guidelines that we read as applying to aquarium plants: “Dispose of unwanted plants in a sealed plastic bag in the trash. These materials should not be composted because their seeds and other plant parts may spread.” For live animals such as snails, the same guidelines say: “Contact a veterinarian or pet retailer for guidance on humane disposal of animals.” and “Disposal of live organisms should be considered as the last resort.”
Tissue-culture plants
Buce Plant says tissue-culture plants are “designed to be free of pests (e.g. snails, planarians, etc.) and algae”. Tropica, a Danish aquarium-plant grower, gives this first step for its 1-2-Grow! cups: “Carefully take the plant out of the cup and rinse off the growing media under the tap.” Buce adds: “This also means the plants are more fragile, and the likelihood of melting in the first few stages of being added into the aquarium is higher.”
Plant dips: sources differ
This guide gives no dip strengths or soak times. Two retailers present a dip as a standard step. Buce Plant: “Here are a few sterilization dips and their respective procedures that you can use to disinfect your aquarium plants”. The Shrimp Farm: “A good method is to dip them in a substance that will kill any unwelcome hitchhikers, but leaves the plant itself alive.” Their methods differ from each other and from LiveAquaria’s in strength and time. LiveAquaria is more cautious: “Because general disinfection requires the use of chemicals that are often considered harsh, it is often reserved for experienced hobbyists. The three most common chemicals used to disinfect or sterilize live aquatic plants include bleach, potassium permanganate, and hydrogen peroxide.” This guide covers the bleach and 3% hydrogen peroxide safety sheets. LiveAquaria says dips “should only be considered in extreme cases as inexperienced or improper execution may ultimately damage rather than disinfect your plant.” Superior (new plants, step 5) and Co-Op (below) are cautious too.
Sources flag sensitive plants. Co-Op, in its pest-snail guide, prefers a slow approach to “chemical treatments like bleach or aquarium salt”: “It can be difficult to find an exact dosing concentration that is strong enough to kill snails and snail eggs but won’t harm more sensitive plants like vallisneria or cryptocoryne plants.” The Shrimp Farm says of its bleach dip: “This can be a bit heavy on the more fragile plants, but it’s quite efficient.” and: “Quarantine is also a good option for more fragile plants that you don’t want to expose to a harsh dip.” Buce Plant gives sensitive plants a milder dip (its figures are not repeated here).
If you dip, LiveAquaria says: “If you choose to disinfect your live plants using a plant dip preparation of bleach, potassium permanganate, or hydrogen peroxide be sure to take all the appropriate safety precautions including the use of gloves and safety glasses and having a neutralizing rinse solution prepared with Seachem Prime or any other concentrated dechlorinator.” Your bottle’s label and its maker’s safety data sheet (SDS) come first; gear differs by sheet (our reading). The CDC, a federal agency: “Never mix household bleach (or any disinfectants) with any other cleaners or disinfectants. This can release vapors that may be very dangerous to breathe in.” and “Make sure you have good ventilation while using bleach products indoors (for example, open windows and doors to allow fresh air to enter).”
- Bleach. Clorox, a bleach maker, in its SDS for Regular-Bleach (revised 10 December 2020): signal word “Danger”; “Causes severe skin burns and eye damage” and “Causes serious eye damage”. Section 8: “If splashes are likely to occur: Wear safety glasses with side shields (or goggles) or face shield.” and “Wear rubber or neoprene gloves and protective clothing such as long-sleeved shirt.” “If irritation is experienced, NIOSH/MSHA approved respiratory protection should be worn.” Eyes: “Hold eye open and rinse slowly and gently with water for 15 – 20 minutes. Remove contact lenses, if present, after the first 5 minutes, then continue rinsing eye. Call a poison control center or doctor for treatment advice.” Skin: “Take off contaminated clothing. Rinse skin immediately with plenty of water for 15-20 minutes. Call a poison control center or doctor for treatment advice.” Inhaled: “If inhaled: Remove person to fresh air and keep comfortable for breathing.” It also says: “This product is toxic to fish, aquatic invertebrates, oysters, and shrimp. Do not allow product to enter storm drains, lakes, or streams.”
- 3% hydrogen peroxide. Ampak Chemicals, a supplier, in its SDS for its 3% topical solution (revised 1 May 2017; a seller’s copy): signal word “WARNING”; “Causes skin irritation” and “Causes serious eye irritation”. The same sheet’s symptoms section also says “Eyes: Causes serious eye damage.” and “Skin: Causes severe skin burns and eye damage.”, and its section 11: “May cause blindness.” Section 8: “Tight sealing safety goggles.” and “Wear protective gloves and protective clothing. Long sleeved clothing. Impervious gloves.” Eyes: “Irrigate copiously with clean water for at least 15 minutes, holding the eyelids apart and seek medical attention.” Skin: “In the case of skin irritation or allergic reactions, wash off immediately with soap and plenty of water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persist.” Inhaled: “Remove to fresh air. Get medical attention immediately if symptoms occur.” Sheets differ, so follow the stricter one (our reading). PCCA’s SDS for a 3% topical solution (revised 12/22): signal word “DANGER”; “May intensify fire; oxidizer. Harmful if swallowed or if inhaled. Causes severe skin burns and eye damage.” Section 8: “Wear appropriate protective eyeglasses or chemical safety goggles as described by OSHA’s eye and face protection regulations in 29 CFR 1910.133 or European Standard EN166.” “Wear appropriate protective gloves and clothing to prevent skin exposure.” “Use a NIOSH/MSHA or European Standard EN 149 approved respirator if exposure limits are exceeded or if irritation or other symptoms are experienced.” It adds: “Harmful to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment.” and “Do not empty into drains. Do not flush into surface water or sanitary sewer system. Do not allow material to contaminate ground water system.”
- Potassium permanganate. LiveAquaria, a retailer, also names it. This guide does not cover a permanganate dip. A maker, Carus, in its safety data sheet (a 2014 copy) warns: “Permanent eye damage including blindness could result.” Current sheets come through Carus’s request form.
If swallowed, the Clorox sheet says: “If swallowed: Rinse mouth. Do NOT induce vomiting.” Ampak: “If swallowed do NOT induce vomiting and obtain immediate medical attention.” In the US, the National Capital Poison Center, a nonprofit, says to “call a poison center at 1-800-222-1222”. The Clorox and Ampak sheets say “Store locked up.”
Clean plants already in the tank
Unplug before your hands go in
Fluval, an aquarium equipment maker, in its AquaClear filter manual: “Always unplug or disconnect all appliances in the aquarium from electricity supply before placing hands in water, before putting on or taking off parts and while the equipment is being installed, maintained or handled.” Stay unplugged until step 6, then plug every appliance you unplugged back in.
Wipe algae off slow growers
Tropica says of anubias nana: “It grows slowly, and the leaves survive for several years, giving slow-growing algae the chance to become established.” Of var. barteri: “Like other Anubias-species, it is best planted in a shady spot to minimize algae growth on the leaves.” Modern Aquarium, a plant and aquarium retailer, lists “Gently wipe algae from older leaves if needed” in its anubias care schedule. Aqueon, an aquarium equipment maker: “Don’t use buckets, scrub pads or any other equipment on your aquarium that have been used with soap or other chemicals.” Stay unplugged until step 6. See our anubias and java fern guides and our planted aquarium light roundup.
Moss: lift out debris and algae
Buce Plant, on java moss: “Browning usually occurs when organic debris gets trapped inside the fine, interlocking fronds or when water temperatures run too high. Gently siphoning debris out during regular water changes will keep the inner growth green and healthy.” Practical Fishkeeping, a fishkeeping magazine: “Hair algae can be a nightmare to remove as it winds its way in. A toothbrush can remove it, although be careful not to pull up and disturb the moss.” Stay unplugged until step 6. Our java moss guide covers trimming it.
Siphon debris from open gravel
Hydor, a heater maker, recommends that its heater is “turned off and unplugged from the power socket at least 30 minutes before any waterchange”; other heaters follow their manual (our reading). Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine, a hobby magazine, on recovering a high-waste tank: “During these smaller and more frequent water changes, a light gravel vacuuming of different non-planted sections would also be beneficial.” Around moss and plants, follow steps 2 and 3. Aqueon: “add water conditioner to new water and then refill the aquarium. Be sure to match temperatures of the new water with the aquarium.” Stay unplugged until step 6.
Trim leaves algae has covered
Aqueon: “Plant leaves that become covered in filamentous algae should be trimmed out.” Bag the trimmings (new plants, step 6). Stay unplugged until step 6. Our guides cover getting rid of algae and why algae grows.
Plug back in once the tank is full and your hands are out
Hydor: “The Heater can ONLY then be turned back on when the Aquarium is full and the heater is completely submerged.” Aqueon’s cleaning checklist: “Plug the filter and heater back in.” Plug every appliance you unplugged back in.
| # | Preview | Product | Price | Link |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |  | UNS Aquascaping Tools – Stainless Steel, Rust Resistant…Scissors for the trimming in step 5 above | $37.64 Prime | Check on Amazon |
UNS Straight Scissors (for the trimming in step 5 above): our aquascaping tools roundup quotes UNS: “Quality build and a sharp blade makes general trimming efficient and precise.” Its caveat there: “Premium price tier; UNS pitches it for general trimming, and the other scissors here are curved or wave”.
What not to do
Each is quoted or labelled in this guide:
- No tool that has touched soap or other chemicals on the aquarium (Aqueon), no soap on filter media (Fluval); keep dip buckets for dips only (our reading), and rinse dipped plants as LiveAquaria says.
- No mixing dip chemicals (CDC).
- Sources caution that sensitive plants may not tolerate a dip (Co-Op: vallisneria, cryptocoryne; The Shrimp Farm: fragile plants).
- No hands in the water with anything plugged in (Fluval).
- No plant trimmings in the compost; for live animals, ask a veterinarian or pet retailer (the Task Force).
Where a dip product’s label or SDS, or your plant seller’s directions, differ from these steps, follow them. More guides are in our Tank Setup & Care section; our planted substrate roundup compares soils and gravels.
Ready to buy?
Our plant fertilizer roundup compares nine fertilizers, and our Substrate, Plants & Decor section gathers plants, substrates and planted-tank gear.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q. Can I use Dawn dish soap to clean aquarium plants?
No maker cited here says soap is safe on plants or in a tank. Fluval’s canister manual, on filter cleaning: “NEVER use soap or detergents as traces of cleaning products could harm fish.”
Q. Why are my aquarium plants so dirty?
Co-Op says algae feeds on waste: “Algae is very adaptable and can readily consume the nitrogen compounds that come from fish poop, unhealthy leaves, uneaten fish food, and other organic materials.”
Q. How do you clean plastic aquarium plants?
NT Labs, a UK water-care maker, says many fishkeepers “physically remove dirt and algae using hot water and an old toothbrush”.
Q. Can I use hydrogen peroxide on algae in the tank?
This guide gives no in-tank peroxide treatment. Our guide to getting rid of algae covers manual removal.
Sources (17)
- Tropica (grower): 1-2-Grow!, Anubias nana, var. barteri
- LiveAquaria (retailer blog)
- Buce Plant (retailer): Quarantine, Tissue culture, Java moss
- The Shrimp Farm (retailer blog)
- Aquarium Co-Op (retailer): Pest snails, Algae
- Superior Shrimp Aquatics (retailer)
- Modern Aquarium (retailer blog)
- SDSs (Clorox, Carus and PCCA makers; Ampak a supplier): Clorox, Ampak (seller’s copy), PCCA, Carus (2014, contractor’s copy; current sheets via Carus’s request form)
- CDC (federal agency), bleach
- National Capital Poison Center (nonprofit)
- Fluval (maker): AquaClear manual, 07 Series manual
- Hydor (maker)
- Aqueon (maker): Do’s and Don’ts, Checklist, Algae
- Practical Fishkeeping (magazine)
- Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine (magazine)
- NT Labs (maker)
- Aquatic Nuisance Species Task Force (federal task force; FWS-hosted page)
Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon.com at the time of purchase will apply to the purchase of this product.
